Beaver Brook Falls isn’t the kind of place you’d drive from miles away to see; in fact, I bet the folks who live right down the street from it seldom come here. I’ve walked the abandoned road that leads to the falls twice this week, once on my own and once with the dog, and I’ve not seen a soul on either day. Teenagers come here occasionally, it seems; there is the usual assortment of spray-paint graffiti on some of the rocks, and at the falls there is a rocky fire-ring with castoff cigarette packs and other detritus. I suppose the naturalist in me should be outraged at such signs of youthful hijinks: spray-paint and litter, after all, leave a distinctly human mark on an otherwise natural landscape. The scenery at Beaver Brook, though, isn’t particularly untouched to begin with: the half-mile stroll to the falls follows an abandoned, overgrown highway fringed with powerlines and guardrail cables. Beaver Brook isn’t wilderness, but it’s wild, a tiny corner of forgotten green right on the edge of town.
You’d never, as I said, drive for miles to see Beaver Brook Falls: it’s a hidden jewel. It lies at the end of a dead-end street right off the on-ramp for the highway that leads to Concord: the road out of town. When you park on the side of this dead-end road and walk around the chained gate that marks the remainder of the road as being under the auspices of the City of Keene Parks and Recreation Department, your ears are bombarded by the sound of Rt. 9 traffic: you are, after all, right off the highway and less than five minutes from downtown.
But as you continue walking up the road’s gradual, green-fringed incline, the sound of traffic fades as the sound of rushing water grows increasingly louder. Beaver Brook isn’t a large waterway: it’s a brook, not a river, so even after our recent spring thunderstorms it’s only several yards across. But that slight incline and the pinch of a narrowing granite gorge works a deceptive magic: close your eyes and the torrent could be larger, the locale more exotic. As you walk that abandoned road, you feel the cool breath of water and greenery: you don’t feel like you’re right outside of town, your car parked on a road alongside someone’s semi-suburban driveway.
I like strolling at Beaver Brook because it’s a quick trip there and back: it’s a stroll I can squeeze into even the most busy day. There is no traffic and (apparently) few walkers, so I can let Reggie run off leash; there is at least one place where the bank slopes gradually so he can swim without struggling to climb out of the water and back onto the road. Although I’ve not seen many birds there, I’ve heard a tempting assortment of birdsongs: black-throated green warblers, hermit thrushes, red-eyed vireos. And earlier this week when I returned to my car after a mid-day stroll at Beaver Brook, I saw a handful of yellow and black tiger swallowtails fluttering on a tumbling torrent of yellow honeysuckle vine, their paper-thin wings catching sunlight like sparks.
Although there’s nothing that can compare with true untouched wilderness, I’ve always loved the hidden jewels in the forgotten corners of civilization. Untouched wilderness is necessary and good, but at a certain level you can’t get there from here: once you or anyone else sets foot onto untouched wilderness, it’s been irrevocably touched and thus loses some of its virginal appeal. Unless you’re going to live in the wilderness, your interactions with it are going to be limited to those occasional sorties you can afford at the tag-ends of your life: a two-week vacation here, a long weekend getaway here. Hidden jewels, though, are perpetually there for the asking: whenever you have a random moment, they unfold their close-to-home beauties for you and the handful of other people (it’s always only a mere handful) who take the time to find wildness close at hand.
I don’t mind sharing Beaver Brook with an occasional band of rollicking youngsters so full of exuberant energy that they’ll walk a half mile for a surreptitious campfire or wade a cold brook to spray-paint their name alongside that of their sweetheart. Animals of all sorts have strange and unusual courtship rituals, and beavers themselves leave a quite drastic mark on otherwise “untouched” landscapes. In the end, I think that nature is meant to be touched, meant to be savored, enjoyed, and experienced: Beaver Brook still flows strong even though a once-busy, now-abandoned road was built on its stony spine, its rocky vertebrae showing no sign of injury from a spray-painted tattoo or two.
On a gorgeous weekend like this, popular hiking destinations like Mount Monadnock are teeming with visitors, weekend-warriors who for the most part have no idea what green jewels lie in their own backyard. Because the mountain is already overcrowded, its trails eroding under the feet of too many visitors, Monadnock State Park doesn’t allow dogs in the park or on the mountain: like the management of an amusement park, the division of parks has to make clear who is and who isn’t fit to ride the rides. At Beaver Brook, there’s no one around to forbid my dog, no one around to care if he runs off-leash or splashes in the stream, no one around to object when he races out of the water and shakes off, exuberant. It’s not easy being a hidden jewel, I’m sure: you spend most of your days in quiet obscurity, forgotten. But those swallowtails, vireos, and thrushes didn’t seem to mind whether they played to a packed house, an audience of two, or the stones themselves. Whether hidden and forgotten or overcrowded and spectacular, nature’s show eternally goes on.
May 30, 2004 at 4:57 pm
It sure does. And you’re lucky to be so close to such wonderful places, and lucky to have the sensitive eye for it. And we for being able to read it of course. It reminds me of my hiking days in the mountains of Switzerland. Places so far away from ‘civilization’, difficult to reach, except for animals and some hikers, that they give you a ‘wild’ feeling, as if you can be whoever you want to be there. I used to dance and jump and spread my arms while running there, things my body never does around people and in ‘civilized’ places.
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May 30, 2004 at 11:35 pm
Thanks for including us in your tour. I enjoyed the walk.
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May 31, 2004 at 10:47 am
I took one of the back (side?) trails up Mt. Monadnock years ago and it was nearly empty until we got to the top… where of course we found people hiking in sandals, cell phone in hand. It was a nice trail, though I don’t know if I could find it now. Monadnock’s a rather nice climb if you can go when there aren’t hordes of people around.
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May 31, 2004 at 3:14 pm
Anne, thanks for taking the time to stop & comment! I’ve never been to Switzerland, but it sounds so lovely! Last summer I spent some time hiking in the hill country north of San Francisco, and one day I was on a particular stretch of trail where I saw no one else except 3 people on horseback. They each looked at me like I’d dropped out of the sky: “How did *you* get here?” “I walked here, just like your horses did!” It’s funny how far from civilization you can get if you simply step out of your car and venture onto footpaths where more sedentary types are unlikely to go.
Kathleen, I’m so happy to hear you enjoyed the post: thank you for commenting! Feel free to drop by and take a “virtual walk” with me anytime!
Leslee, we haven’t hiked any of the Monadnock trails since we got our dog: we just don’t have the heart to go hiking without him. We tried it once: we got our hiking gear, boots, etc, ready and started to leave without him, but he was so miserable & despondent we changed plans to go somewhere more dog-friendly. This, after all, is a dog whose climbed up & DOWN Cannon Mountain, including a stressful stretch where we had to pull him down a cliff ladder! (We should have read the trail guide more closely before setting out!) He’s a real trooper, so we hate to leave him behind…
Thanks for the wonderful comments!
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